In an interview conducted on October 19, 2023, in Lishui, China, we explored the transformation of coffee culture in Qingtian County, Zhejiang Province. Traditionally viewed as an imported luxury item associated with urban elites, coffee has evolved into a significant part of local life since the 1990s, deeply embedded in the streets, alleys, and daily rhythms of the community.
When we asked Ji Yiping, a key figure in this coffee revolution, about the origins of this phenomenon, he shared his unique journey. “In the 1990s, coffee was becoming popular in major cities due to its Western roots,” Ji recalled. “After saying goodbye to my brother who was returning from Europe, I stepped into a coffee shop at the airport and was captivated by the rich aroma. It sparked an idea: I wanted to bring that experience back to Qingtian.”
Ji explained that while traditional Chinese tastes leaned more toward lighter beverages like tea, he noticed a growing market in Qingtian driven by returning overseas Chinese who had developed a coffee-drinking habit during their time abroad. “At that time,” he said, “there were no coffee shops to cater to these individuals upon their return. I decided to open the first cafe in Qingtian.”
In 1992, Ji launched “Yuanshang Ren” (“Original Hometown”) cafe. He faced challenges due to limited resources, particularly the scarcity of espresso machines. Instead, he crafted rich coffee using a manual stirring method. “While it was a simple process, the coffee turned out to be exceptionally aromatic, quickly attracting a loyal customer base. A cup cost only five yuan, but our daily revenue reached between 2,000 to 4,000 yuan,” Ji noted.
The success of his cafe ignited a budding coffee culture in Qingtian, leading to a surge in cafes across the region. As we moved into the 21st century, we asked Ji about the significant changes that have occurred in Qingtian’s coffee industry. He reflected on how advancements in technology and talent exchanges propelled rapid growth. “Today, on Linjiang Road, we have a variety of both big-name brands and local coffee shops. From importing coffee beans to roasting and packaging, we can proudly say that coffee in Qingtian is now ‘made in Qingtian,'” he added.
We also spoke with Yu Fei, a co-founder of a local coffee roasting factory. “In the early days, we only processed pre-roasted beans from abroad, but now we handle everything from importing raw beans to roasting and selling them ourselves,” Yu explained. This shift has empowered local producers and improved quality standards.
Yu highlighted how shifting consumer demands reflect a growing diversity in the coffee culture. “Generational preferences vary significantly,” she noted. “Those from the ’60s value high-quality espresso, while the ’70s generation enjoys the ambiance of coffee spaces. The ’80s and ’90s crowds are more interested in unique coffee flavors and social experiences.” Responding to this insight, Yu aims to create differentiated products that resonate with diverse age groups and incorporate Qingtian’s local identity into packaging design.
The rapid development of Qingtian’s coffee industry has been supported by the Qingtian Coffee Association. Zhang Yanfeng, the association’s president, stated, “Compared to Europe, Qingtian’s coffee history is relatively young. Our early attempts were inconsistent and mainly reflected Italian street coffee culture. To enhance the overall quality of Qingtian coffee, we have implemented a series of industry standards and guidelines, encouraging professionals to adopt more scientifically sound methods to capture the true essence of coffee.”
From the initial brewing of coffee to the establishment of a complete production chain, Qingtian’s coffee economy has undergone remarkable transformations in the 75 years since the founding of New China. Today, the area boasts 517 cafes, with annual coffee consumption exceeding 100 tons and daily sales approaching 20,000 cups. The coffee industry has surpassed a yearly output value of 100 million yuan, establishing a robust supply chain that integrates imported raw materials, local roasting, and retail sales.
